Walking in Bajo del Tigre Reserve

It was pouring rain and blowing wind when we woke up, but by the time breakfast was over, it had cleared up, so I went for a walk. A 15-minute walk from our house is the Bajo del Tigre Reserve, which is part of the Children’s Eternal Rainforest. This is a 57,000-acre preserve that is run by the non-profit Monteverde Conservation League that was established in the 1980’s.

The reserves around Monteverde
A map of the reserves around Monteverde
A very tall tree in Bajo Tigre reserve

I took a 2 km loop on well-marked trails, mostly downhill on the way out and then uphill on the way back. I didn’t see anyone else on the trails, just the trees, which were alive in the wind, each whispering or speaking or shouting in their own particular rustle. I took lots of pictures of the trees, many with ficus (strangler vines) growing around them that will eventually kill the tree, leaving a hollow structure.

A view across the valley
An enormous ficus tree

Inspired by this connection of life and death, I began to look at trees that had fallen and to stumps – each nurturing so much other life, even in their decay. This one stump was even still working with roots deep in the soil to hold back a hillside.

A decaying tree trunk
A stump
Moss on a tree

I only caught glimpses of the fauna of the forest. The only animal I saw fully was a brown squirrel who wasn’t at all shy, sitting on the trunk of a tree and scolding me as I approached. His scolding startled another creature in the underbrush, which I think was a Highland Tinamou (after I spotted one on another hike). They are hard to see unless you catch one in motion, as they blend in with the colors of the forest floor.

On a side note, we have spotted capuchin monkeys, although just in our everyday life out-and-about in the community, rather than in the forest. Pat saw this one doing a high-wire balancing act! I saw another pair right behind the coffee shop in the community center, jumping from branch to branch.

This cappuchin monkey was walking across a powerline over the main road downtown.
Monkeys come pretty close to people, to the point that they are sometimes problematic!

On my hike, I also spotted lots of butterflies, moths, and other winged insects. The only one I knew the name for was the blue morpho. We see these beautiful big butterflies every time we take a walk, and their flight is a captivating fluttering from the brilliant blue of their top wings to the camouflage dark brown and grey of the wings’ undersides.

A blue morpho
A yellow sulphur butterfly
These guys are everywhere in Monteverde.

But the most riveting part of the walk were the bird songs – I didn’t see a single one, but I heard many! The Pajaro Campana (three-wattled bell-bird) in particular followed my steps for a long stretch. Their call begins with a low croak, then steps up, almost like an arpeggio. The third note is a high-pitched and piercing whistle that can be heard for miles. Although I searched the trees, I never spotted one. Later the next week when I went back with Patrick and Sophie, he went off on a slightly longer trail by himself and made this amazing video of a bell-bird where you can see and hear it vocalizing.

The three-wattled bellbird is one of the loudest birds in the world!

I look forward to returning often to this beautiful place and hope I can spot the Pajaro Campana myself before the year is out!

🚨 Update! On Monday, August 25, I returned for another walk in Bajo del Tigre, and following advice to look for the Pajaro Campana on dead branches, I managed to spot the bird twice! The second time he wasn’t very high up and I had to walk – very quietly – almost underneath where he was perched, so I got a really good look. When I described these locations to the staff, they said these were two of the three preferred spots of one particular bird, who has a triangle of terrain he covers. So if you come to visit, we can take a walk in Bajo del Tigre together and maybe, if we are lucky, we will spot the Pajaro Campana again!

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